Mildura madness

We'd got a tip off that the Mildura country music festival was in town, so not a camping spot was to be found. We did infact find possibly the last camping spot, however it's far from flash. Cold showers, blocked fetid drains, and the backpacker hostel full of single local men - it doesn't really have a happy holiday feel. Never mind it's only for 3 nights!

Today we did the essential paddle boat ride up and down The Murray - its a relaxing hypnotic way to travel - it would be fun to hire a house boat at some stage! Haduks bakery won hands down for a spot of lunch (2nd day running). Sumo salad got my business though (Brooke looked at the options and said 'nothing for kids here'). I disagree but when the alternative is a meringue bug there is no competition

Orange world completed our afternoon - this was the quirkiest family appropriate tour I've ever done! Brian sang as a song about Mildura and recited his life story in verse! We learned heaps about oranges and other citrus - where else might you learn about the 3 p's of growing citrus - peel, poo and pee? Orange world is a must see!

Quiet night - popped the heater on in the tent - last night at 2 am it was 30! Not so tonight.

Marshmallow bliss

Our family have voted these Rocky Mountain marshmallows number 1!! They are large and almost juicy - if you toast them on the fire you'll get 3 layers - or more!! We will try them in hot chocolate soon - and will give you a full report!!

Coober Pedy to Coober Pedy, and all that came inbetween

We enjoyed Coober Pedy last time we were here, 2 weeks ago, and we've been to lots of places since then.  A long days drive to Alice and we book into a resort after 7 hours of driving - the kids have been amazing - not complaining once - and even I am amazed by how engrossed I am by the constantly changing landscape.  My eldest lad asks when we get to the real desert - rolling hills of red - I cant quite remember.  It turns out that due to an amount of rain that can not be remembered in anyones lifetime - there are no rolling red hills.  Eldest child is disappointed.  Never mind.

We eat out at The Saloon Bar in Todd St (very good) and stay at the Desert Palms (a little tired).  Next day we roll up to the most expensive camping ever - $70 per night - BIG 4 at Alice is well worth it.  BUT WHAT IS IT WITH THE POOLS?  It's into the 30's and there are solar panels everywhere - but pools less than 20 degrees.  Cools you down in 30 seconds or less!

A day of washing, shopping, relaxing and we meet up with friends that we havent seen for 5 years or so.  They havent changed at all!  Their kids and ours mix easily - its an interesting night - I'm pleased to hear their opinions on life in Alice.  They are leaving soon, as most / many do.

A visit to the Cultural Precinct and museum was interesting.  Another day spent at the public pool (lots of fun there and finally I can get some exercise in water - and the kids need some normal play time too).  Another day is spent at Desert Park, which really demonstrates how diverse the desert is even over just 1 km!  The bird show there was awesome - lots of fun and the bush tucker session was worthwhile too. 

I am feeling I am learning a lot about the desert, but hardly anything at all about the Aboriginal people.  I am looking back writing this, and have determined that you just cant sum them up in one paragraph - their cultures are very diverse, and their current lifestyles vary from highly disfunctional to university educated.  Such a difficult situation.  Charlie nearly died (fainted) when a women pulled a broken bottle on an man (and the language, oh the language).  Such a public display of aggression, my kids have seen nothing like it.  Our friends who lived their for 5 years hadnt seen anything like it either, so I am thinking we were unlucky.

Our last 2 days in Alice were indeed wonderful - visiting an array of gorges and natural features that I had visited as a young backpacker.  I've written a blog on this (This one is from the heart).  It is interesting how memory works - a gate here, and waterhole there and I am remembering things that I havent thought of since I cant tell you when.

 But it is 24 years since I was last here and I must say a whole range of emotions and memories returned.  I look forward to rereading my 1988 diary and looking at photos - I've gone to places I was sure I hadnt been before . . . but then again!

The Reptile Park is well worth a look for an up close experience!

This one is from the heart

This one is from the heart.

Its been 24 years since I was in the outback – I was 20 then, a carefree backpacker – bulletproof with health and youth and everything ahead of me.  I’m not complaining how I’ve spent the last 24 years, I certainly am not complaining.  But motherhood and compromise are interchangeable – and I am loving my time in Alice and Coober Pedy, and the East and West Mac Donnel Ranges, but I cannot help but look back. 

Now I keep catching views of myself, the not so supple skin hits the most – I glance at my hands – eekk!  Aging hands, sagging neck, puffy knees – gravity is setting in.  I watched an episode of Catalyst and find there is no skin cream that can turn back time – botox might help, fat injections, laser . . . I’m not sure that’s a path I want to tread – so embrace this aging I must.  It’s hard not to look back.  24 years since I was last here – and even with (so it seemed) all the time in the world I didn’t circumnavigate Kings Canyon or Uluru, I didn’t do all the little walks that are there to be done.  And now I’m travelling with a 4 year old and it has its concessions.  No walks longer than 30 minutes or ‘she’ must be carried.  Dont get me wrong, I love looking at things through a child’s eyes, but as I revisit these places that I went to 24 years ago, and again cant find the opportunity to walk the circuit, I’m wondering will I ever?  If its another 24 years, I’ll be 68.

I’m not happy about missing these opportunities – I love walking, exploring, exerting myself – and I feel like this has all been ‘on hold’ since motherhood.  But wait, I look at my oldest child.  He’s 11 now and quite capable.  I ask him “would you like to do the Kings Canyon circuit”?  I’m aware its 38 degrees.  “Yes, I would” he says, “but it’s very hot”.  “Well”  I say, “We will take plenty of water, and maybe not do the whole 4 hour circuit, maybe just an hour in and an hour out”.  “Yes” he says, “I think I’m up for that”.  I feel excited at this new potential.  The first 15 minutes nearly kills him, but we take it easy and after the initial climb it’s hot but easy walking.  Husband is so easy going as says he will come back after 2 hours, and if we don’t show he’ll come back after 4.  So there is no pressure on us.  My son is confused by this, ”why can’t we ring Dad when we need a lift”?  “No signal” I say (and have said in many different ways as we have travelled outback in and out of mobile phone range – its a concept he really struggles to grasp). 

40 minutes into the walk and we have all but drained our first bottle of water.  It is hot like Bikrum, I can manage, my boy needs lots of rests – no problem – I cannot risk turning him off taking on a challenge.  Then he admits he did not fill his extra water bottle, so we have no choice but to turn back 1 hour in.  I am slightly pissed off about this – he was told to fill both – but he had no idea, had no experience of what this might be like.  It’s not all bad, I got to see part of Kings Canyon that I hadn’t seen before.  I forgot my camera.  So I took a picture with my memory, and stored it in my heart.  It is, indeed spectacular.  I found a new hiking buddy, infact grew him myself.

2 days later and we are at Uluru, and again, that feeling, that I’m not going to do anything more exciting than the wheelchair access options, the family friendly walk.  The walk up the rock is closed at any opportunity, and morally its not really the go, so the circumnavigation is what I’m wanting.  Husband is keen to ‘do it’ and move on.  I’m not sure what the rush is!  There is so much to do, why cant anyone else see that?  Hamstrung by the littleun.  Again I look to my eldest, “fancy a stroll around the rock mate?”.  “It’s 38 degrees mum” he points out.  “Same rules buddy, we go til we are sick of it and then Dad can pick us up at the other car parks”  He thinks he might, but in the heat of the day decides no, it’s too much.  And it probably is.  But, I’m up for it.  So I get dropped off and have the most memorable afternoon in a long time.  I feel energised, renewed, challenged – a bit like my old back packer self.  It was hot, and hard, and long, but heat I can do and splendid it was.  I got to read all the info stations – that in itself is a treat.   I must say that everyone of my photos (camera remembered this time) is disappointing – it does not capture the enormity, glory or spectacular site before me.  Never mind, I capture it in my heart and in my mind and so it is there forever.

5 ways to use your flat tyre

1. Instead of tent pegs - the ground is so hard at Kings Canyon, even harder than Coober Pedy where you live underground in an unreinforced house - why not use your flat tyre to tie your tent down :)

2. As a tricep dips bench - sit on it - now bend the elbows up down up down

3. Also thinking fitness here - but it's a portable step up bench - isn't it?

4. Tyre removed leave your rim in the sun and you have an extra skillet. Cook eggs and bacon on it - it's hot enough

5. As a small table for your 4 year old. She can sit on the ground and the flat tyre makes an excellent if not dusty portable table

We were on the road to Kings Canyon when we blew our tyre. That was 3 days ago and it will be another 5 days before we get another and I can't imagine what this will cost. Until then we drive under 80 kph - 350 km down today - if we blow another we are screwed. Apparently Captiva spares are hard to come by. No Oonadatta Track, we won't drive the southern end of Lake Eyre - we've been told you can blow a tyre or 2 on these tracks and they are just too hard to come by. Never mind, I am still hoping to fly over Lake Eyre. We r at Uluru now and it is magic. I thrive in the heat and it's 9 pm and still 33! Husband does not thrive in the heat. Ying and yang are we.

The Breakaways - east of Coober Pedy

If you go to the Breakaways you will see this.  You will not hear a sound.  I think this is the place I need to be, for a month.

 This is the moon plane - it is the site of many movies, Mad Max 3 to name just one.  It is like the moon, mud like, with shiney gypsom glistening in the sun.  Petrified wood features there too.

 This is the Castle.  Feel the serenity . . .

 This place is Crocodile Harry's.  I went here in 1988!  It also featured in Mad Max 3 - gotta watch that movie again!

There is something about Coober Pedy that feels like home.  But it couldnt be more different. You've gotta go there!

on the 12th day of road trip, my true love gave to me . . .

On the 12th day of road trip my true love gave to me

• 12 disowned tyres
• 11 buggered kanga's
• 10 lonely cattle
• 9 barking dogs
• 8 Winnebago's
• 7 long legged emus
• 6 unknown squishy things
• 5 ice cream cones
• 4 wedge tail eagles
• 3 lucky lizards
• 2 dead sheep
• and a burnt out, rusty old van

                                                                                                                           Lots of memories :)

Red dirt - Adelaide, Melrose to Coober Pedy, and Glendambo inbetween

Day 4 in Adelaide and it’s time to head off, washing completed – but alas I am not sleeping again.  Not sure why.  Today is a big drive – about 400 km to a place called Melrose.  Its a mountain biking mecca with a quaint, pretty little town.  Caravan Park is inexpensive, has a camp kitchen, a creek and swing bridge close by and access to the school play ground.  All boxes ticked.  There’s a funky little shop called Joes – a real surprise – do yourself a favour and pop in (but not with a 4 year old miss with a eye for pink sparkly things).  She almost insisted on high heel thongs, but as the dinosaur ones were too little settled on some pretty blue thongs with flowers on them!  And I got some chocolate and kahlua chocolate sauce.  We booked in for 1 night but stayed for 2 – it’s really pretty here and there’s nice family walks and a slow pace that we crave.  We are starting to see red dirt.  We are starting to find towns with no shop.  We found 1 town called Georgetown with a couple of fun and friendly local gems behind the counter.  At Laura there was a statue dedicated to C J Dennis – author of The Sentimental Bloke – sentimental to me as I performed this play with a local theatre troupe when I was about 16!

Fried rice for tea tonight we are low on supplies, and if the wind stays down a fire to toast our marshmallows by!  We’ve been holding onto these truly excellent marshmallows for about 6 weeks now – well done kids – they were worth the wait weren’t they!

We now know our tent can withstand gale force winds.  We have 3 nights of experiencing this, and we are one tired and grumpy family (except Charlie and Brooke who seem to sleep through everything).  We had a day of travel and made it to Glendambo – who knows who else goes there but the weary traveller.  For us we had nothing but wind and dust and the lack of camp kitchen meant really no choice but to eat in the restaurant.  A fellow traveller pulled up beside us and we thought, excellent – a bit of a wind break.  But they bought their dog, which barked all night as a big red fox kept stirring it up.  It’s a double V day for sure.

It was a long but exciting days travel – the road count goes something like this

12 dead kangaroos, 10 dead cows, 2 dead sheep, 1 dead emu, 4 dead squishy things, 4 burnt out rusted cars and a road train full of camels and one blown up trailer load of 44 gallon drums.

We stopped in at Woomera for the rocket museum (closed) and wondered how the asylum seekers were hidden.  The land is barren, salt bush, acacia, survive in this place.  Not much else.

On to Coober Pedy – this place really doesn’t look much different since I saw it in 1988.  Actually everything is a nice surprise – you shop entrance tells nothing of what is behind – under ground shops are the norm – homes too.  Bit of a lazy afternoon after a 2 hour drive from Glendambo.  The kids were excited to be here and use the pool.  Me too, except it was only 16 degrees.  More like an ice plunge.  I so need a swim and some exercise – but it isn’t going to be here.  I walked to the Big Winch and essentially broke in to the place, along a dirt path, over a fence – 2 more fences to jump to get out of there!  Slept well.  Finally.

Today we did a mine tour at Tom’s – it was so interesting – we learned so much and had the tour guide to ourselves.  Looked also at Fayes underground house – 3 women dug out a house, by pick and shovel!!  Did some noodling, Charlie found something oval like, otherwise we found lots of samples of gypsum.  This avro we have planned a trip to the breakaways – so breathtaking scenery for tomorrow.  We are staying an extra day as my mum is on the way!  Arriving late tomorrow after driving from Port Augusta.

2,000 km and going strong :)

Part of the reason we rushed KI was we have friends in Adelaide, and we wanted to spend the weekend with them.  First social event – Master Lucas turned 1!  We were made very welcome by locals Liz and Chris, and their friends at the party.  It was good for our friends too who hadn’t socialised with other kids all week, and now they ran around throwing balls to and at each other – a big giggle fest!  It’s lovely to see your kids mixing easily with new kids. 


Next day – off to the beach and manmade caves at Port Willoughby.  The kids made pick axes from the rocks and pretended they were cave men!  “Want to go or stay boys?”.  “Stay” they chorused.  Later in the day we had great adventures at the locally known “wooden park”.  Huge!  The kids loved it!  Swings in a circle, bongo drums, lots of spinning things for butts to sit in, and hide and seek – their favourite!  The kids are winding down nicely.

Day 3 in Adelaide – lazy day at China Town – exploring delicious cheap eats (tempted but not trying the chicken feet).  The dumplings and sushi were fresh and yummy.  Off to the botanical garden next – more cave man play and the first bit of skin time – kids running around giggling with tops off.  My prediction – if we are not careful Brooke with have dreadlocks, Charlie a tan and perpetual bare feet and Fraser will not raise his eyes for a book! 

Success on many levels.  Do not miss the Haigh's chocolate outlet store in Adelaide.  Do not miss.

Pools for every kind of health!

Here I am at the Alice Springs community pool and around I see the health benefits of pools

First, you can't help but get clean

Second - its fun, constructive play - a great use of recreation time

It bonds families - you must supervise kids and if you get abit casual about this the lifeguards remind you

Fun aside - you might just learn a skill - like swimming

You've got to respect the rules, stay safe, look after yourself and others around you

Can't deny it's exercise too!

I'm just loving watching all the families, hearing all the different languages, and seeing the many ways communities connect and share the same resource!

Kangaroo Island - 2nd 1,000 km

It’s the third time I’ve been to Adelaide and finally we have the means to visit Kangaroo Island!  The $2,500 one day tour for the 5 of us a little out of reach – but the self drive day trip a possibility!

 Up early, drive 80km from Goolwa through lush, scenic farming land, past Victor Harbour and on the 9 am ferry at Cape Jervis.  A quick boat trip (no one feeding the fish this time) and like a dream we were there.  “Not like it used to be” said a local – “they hit you in the hip pocket every where you go”.  And they were right.  Even entry to a National Park, a self guided tour – added $9 to the entry price for the 4 year old.  She was only a week past being 3!  KI is well worth the stop – but stay longer than the 1 day we did – we managed Seal Point, Kelly’s Caves and Flinders Chase National Park, and the rest was driving.  It’s bigger than you think and worth a longer stay, even a few weeks.  That is, if you are into bush walks, wildlife and gourmet food.

Seal Point – if I’d seen nothing else, made the trip worthwhile.  From the viewing boardwalk we got to see seal pups feeding from their mums and the skeleton of a hump back whale.  Apparently 85% of Australian Fur Seals call this coast home.  They are plentiful.

Kelly’s cave – named after a horse that possibly fell into a cave ... somewhere . . . This cave is steeped in history and although we only saw a little of it, I’ve never seen one so white. 

Flinders Chase National park – walk right to the bottom, and right to the end said the park ranger – you wont be disappointed – and we weren’t!  More seals, arches, stunning and wild coastline, more stories of ship wreck – you can see why.

I wish we had longer for KI but we will be back.

Red Dirt Experience - first 1,000 km - Part 2

Ok, Mt Gambier - only stayed overnight despite inviting walks and caves to explore.  The weather was ordinary, and we are wanting to be in Adelaide for the weekend to stay with friends.  The Blue Lake was shining blue, and we visited "the sinkhole".  Property owner James Umpherston converted this sunken cave ceiling into a garden in the 19th Century - its a really interesting site - again - it was a site I hadnt seen before.  There are heaps of other caves and walks to do - but time did not permit!

Stayed at the Big 4 - pool closed for the winter.  Groan.  Great camp kitchen.

Next day - big drive day - the weather was ordinary and if we could put some km behind us the next few days would be cruisey.  We drove for most of the day (not that we set out early) and made it to Goowla - on the Fleurieu Penninsula where we could explore the Coorong.  We lunched at Kingston and discovered this big guy . . .

We spotted a flock of birds - they weren't flying like ducks in a uniform V, they kept rotating who took the lead but more in a line formation.  We were quite mesmerised by them - what type of birds were they????  Pelicans!!  Mr Percival no less!

Its worth knowing if you are heading to the Coorong via Goolwa that by taking a free punt at Wellington you shave about 50 km off the trip - the Murray is narrow here and its a quick 5 minute trip that saves time after a long drive.

Goolwa is a lovely little town and we decided to stay at the Goolwa Caravan Park a few km's out because it had had good reviews, had a pool and spa, mini golf, playground, canoe hire . . . . it sounded great for the family.  What we found was the park was not staffed, no camp kitchen (at all), BBQ's could just melt butter, and everything else antiquated.  We stayed regardless after tent rangling, but it remains a bit of a joke that we paid $45 a night to park our tent and use the loo!

Pool closed due to winter - groan!  I'm starting to see a pattern here - all pools are outdoor!

During the night . . . . . rip!!!!!  Middle child's camping stretcher ripped and he fell through the middle!  He said with a smile 'I felt a difference'.  Ha ha I bet!  Found the canvas repairer first thing - all fixed for $20!

The Coorong tour was amazing!  We heard about the need for barrages to stop the flow of salt water up stream - this happened during the depression as a work development initiative - already we were taking too much water out of the Murray - salt water was travelling as far north as Murray Bridge - SA land was seriously being affected.  The guide talked of the science behind it - so interesting - and so much thought behind these barrages so long ago - they got it right though.

Here is a seal - NZ fur seal - relaxing in the sun at the Goolwa barrage

The Murray Mouth had heaps of Pelicans and seals, other birds too

We also walked to the other side - the Southern Ocean - wild and ferocious - met us as we crossed the dunes.  We worked out that the high number of dead carp on the coastline were due to them finding salt water after slipping through the barrages.  They litter the shore.

We all finished the day feeling pretty happy with ourselves!!

Red dirt experience - first 1,000 km

Ian doesnt get paid enough.  I know he is just doing his job, but when your job is cleaning up blocked sinks - blocked with your kids vomit - he just isnt paid enough.  And, to his credit he showed up with only a pair of rubber gloves.  The Spirit of Tasmania  trip was not kind to either son or husband, and discussions about whether we holiday on a South Pacific Cruise will be held later . . . . .

Day 1 and we head for Lorne - the land is rich and fertile, no sign of any drought - infact "to tell you the truth we are bloody sick of the rain" said the lady at our first stop.  Our tent is waterproof and we were pretty tired - and Lorne is so beautiful!!  We visited Erskine Falls (a lot like Liffey Falls in Tassie) and Teddy's Lookout - we really appreciated the views, rainbows and forward thinking of the post WW1 veterans who with pick and wheelbarrow, carved a road through this coastline.  Kids excited, and holding up well.

Day 2 we travel to Port Campbell and stay in their amazing holiday accomodation - nice camping spots, wonderful camping kitchen (heated with all facilities) lounge, games room, austar, all the comforts a family require!  Port Campbell is a stunning place, wild, and fierce - battered by storms from the Southern Ocean.  Amazing that it is a port as its a really narrow gorge.  It has a lovely river flowing to one side that you can walk along and find lots of dead things . . . . .

there's a walk you can do up onto the headland - but you have to cross the river first - a little warmer and we'd have done it!

Day 3 and we back track to the 12 Apostles - what an awesome coastline with an interesting history.

Middle son discovers that it takes thousands of years for sand to be made from rock - a good thing too i say or the Australian coast would be at Alice Springs by now . . . . middle child does not get my sense of humour.  We also head over to Woollongong and go to their truely amazing museum (holidaying in the school term has its advantages - we were the only family there over 3 hours!!)  Seeing the Loch Ard peacock - now that is a history worth investivating - but in a nutshell the Loch Ard was one of 200 ship wrecks on this coast, this one had one 2 survivors (the museum centres around the story) and we see the Loch Ard peacock - some 6 feet tall ceramic piece of work that sunk with the Loch Ard only to wash up on the shore 3 days later, with the smallest chip on its beak.  Its quite remarkable.  What is also remarkable is the light and lazer show at the same museum - a fountain of water making the screen with a truely fantastic re-telling of the Loch Ard sinking - I've never seen anything like it!

Day 4 we pack up and move on to Mount Gambier - but thats for the next blog :)